Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
